In Paris, Francesca Amfitheatrof, Louis Vuitton’s artistic director of watches and jewelry, draws inspiration from seismic shifts over the past century for the “Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds” high jewelry collection. The collection’s 100-piece opening chapter introduces innovations like fully traceable rubies, a yellow LV Monogram Star cut diamond, and a tiara.
Amfitheatrof explores the period from the French Revolution to the 1901 Universal Exposition through 11 themes, emphasizing the boom in artisanal creation post-Revolution. Divided into two parts spanning five decades each, the collection reflects on traditional crafts, technological advancements, and the iconic Eiffel Tower.
The initial part showcases handcrafted themes, such as Splendeur, featuring intricate floral motifs with ruby centers and closed-set diamonds resembling carved woodwork. Notably, the collection introduces colored gemstones with Aura blockchain-backed mine-to-jewelry certificates, a collaboration between Fura mine and Louis Vuitton.
The Elegance set highlights the first Vuitton high jewelry tiara, inspired by the trembleuse jewelry technique. Braiding and textile crafts inspire the Seduction pieces, including a collar necklace adorned with thousands of stones and featuring a hidden watch.
The second part of the collection celebrates advancements in science and engineering with themes like Gravité, inspired by the Earth’s rotation, and Vision, drawing from railway tracks. Victoire pays homage to the Eiffel Tower’s structure and volumes.
Amfitheatrof emphasizes the marriage of discovery, engineering, and technology, exemplified by the yellow LV Monogram Star cut diamond. House ambassador Ana de Armas praises the collection’s storytelling and the immersive experience offered by each jewel.
The centerpiece of the collection, Cœur de Paris, is a 56.23-carat fancy deep brown-pink diamond, showcasing a rare Asscher cut. Mined in Borneo, it features in a rose gold structure resembling the Eiffel Tower, detachable and wearable as a brooch.
Amfitheatrof prioritizes the diamond’s exceptional cut, opting for a design showcasing the Eiffel Tower from a unique perspective, radiating lightness and energy.