Ara Vartanian, a Brazilian jeweler known for his distinctive designs, spoke about his creative process and recent philanthropic efforts in a Zoom interview with Only Natural Diamonds. Vartanian, who founded his eponymous jewelry brand 22 years ago, is celebrated for his innovative use of natural diamonds and bold design choices.
In a picturesque setting with the lush mountains of Southeastern Brazil as his backdrop, Vartanian discussed his latest jewelry creation, a new “family” called Flare. He prefers the term “family” over “collection” because it suggests that new pieces can be added over time. “A family can be expanded,” Vartanian explained.
The Flare family is inspired by Vartanian’s passion for motorsports and vintage cars. He described the design as reminiscent of the “flares” found on race car wheels. This inspiration is evident in the shoulder-duster earrings of the Flare collection, which feature gold tubes with inverted diamonds or baguette diamonds of varying sizes. “Flares are those skirt-like trims on car wheels; they’re a nod to race cars,” Vartanian said.
Vartanian emphasized that his design process is guided by his imagination rather than external references. “I don’t use books for inspiration. It’s about what comes to me naturally during the creation process,” he said. He prefers to avoid using direct references from nature or other sources, as he feels it would be inauthentic.
In addition to discussing his work, Vartanian reflected on the recent severe flooding in Brazil. The disaster, which was widely covered in the media, inspired him to design a new piece with a charitable purpose. The striking image of a horse stranded on a rooftop during the floods moved him deeply. In response, Vartanian created a carved crystal pendant featuring the horse, which will be sold for $1,600, with 50% of the proceeds donated to an NGO that supports rescue efforts for both humans and animals. Vartanian also contributed to Movimento União BR, a nonprofit providing flood relief, and previously created a similar piece to support an orphanage in Haiti.
Vartanian took the opportunity to address a common misconception about his work. Although he is known for using colorful gemstones like Paraiba tourmalines and Burmese rubies, he clarified that diamonds are a major part of his designs. “People often think of my work as being all about colorful stones, but I also have a deep connection with diamonds,” he said. He attributes this perception to past client events focused on showcasing specific gemstones.
In April 2023, Vartanian expanded his brand by opening its first US flagship store in Bal Harbour. This move is part of a carefully planned growth strategy aimed at reaching clients from around the world. “I have clients from all over, especially from Latin American countries, who see me as a designer of color stone jewelry,” he noted.
Vartanian’s background includes working alongside his father, a diamond dealer in Brazil. They dealt with gemstones in major diamond centers like Antwerp, New York, and Hong Kong before Vartanian decided to start his own jewelry brand. His unique approach to diamond design, which often includes unconventional settings, was initially met with skepticism by traditional dealers. “I’ve always wanted to explore the unexpected beauty of diamonds, even if it meant challenging conventional views,” he said.
Vartanian’s creative philosophy is driven by curiosity and a desire to push boundaries. “I try to stay curious and avoid self-deception,” he said. For instance, he prefers innovative designs, such as using pear-shaped diamonds in unexpected ways rather than following conventional trends.
“It’s my passion for diamonds that led me to explore their hidden beauty by turning them upside down,” Vartanian concluded.
Vartanian’s unique approach to jewelry design and his recent charitable efforts reflect his commitment to creativity and social responsibility.
