The Aga Khan Emerald, a stunning 37-carat centerpiece of a platinum and gold Cartier brooch, is expected to sell for between $6 million and $8 million next month at Christie’s in Geneva.
This remarkable brooch was part of the inaugural Magnificent Jewels sale at Christie’s in May 1969. At that time, it sold for CHF 580,000, equivalent to about $135,000.
The auction catalog described the piece as a “magnificent emerald and diamond clip brooch.” It features a superb square-cut emerald surrounded by twenty navette-cut diamonds arranged in a fancy lozenge-shaped cluster. The emerald weighs approximately 37.41 carats, while the total weight of the diamonds is around 12.04 carats.
After its initial sale, the brooch was acquired by renowned jeweler Harry Winston, who later transformed it into a pendant.
The emerald was originally commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan in 1960 as a gift for his wife, Nina Dyer. Dyer was a prominent Anglo-Indian socialite and fashion model. The prince renounced his succession rights to marry her, as she was a divorcee.
During their brief marriage, which lasted three years before they separated and divorced after five, he lavished her with extravagant gifts, including a Caribbean island.
The gem was mined in Muzo, a Colombian emerald site located about 60 miles north of present-day Bogotá. Its impressive size, even green color, and high transparency make it exceptionally rare, according to Max Fawcett, head of jewelry at Christie’s Geneva.
Fawcett noted, “The fact that it’s set in an original piece by Cartier is the cherry on top.”
The Aga Khan Emerald will be auctioned alongside a selection of items from Harry Winston, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and other prestigious maisons on November 12.
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