Phillips’ New York Jewels auction on December 13 achieved a total of more than $2.5 million, with 70% of lots sold by both lot and value. Held at the auction house’s Park Avenue location, the event showcased an impressive selection of colored diamonds, gemstones, and signed pieces, though several key lots failed to find buyers.
The top lot of the sale was a stunning Toi et Moi ring, featuring a 5.03-carat pear-shaped diamond paired with a 3.61-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond. Both diamonds, internally flawless, are set in a platinum band accented with brilliant-cut colorless and yellow-tinted diamonds. The ring sold for $253,000, comfortably within its estimated range.
Following closely was a 3.42-carat unmounted Kashmir sapphire, fetching $215,900. The third-highest sale was a 10.11-carat Paraiba tourmaline from Brazil, known for its rarity, particularly when exceeding 10 carats. The vibrant gemstone sold for $215,900. Despite undergoing heat treatment, the stone exhibited no further clarity enhancement, as confirmed by the gem’s Gübelin report.
In the signed jewelry category, the top lot was a transformable René Boivin aquamarine demi-parure from the 1950s, designed by Juliette Moutard. This piece features a step-cut aquamarine necklace with removable elements, allowing the pendant to be worn as a brooch and the necklace shortened into a bracelet. The set sold for $146,050. An antique necklace with 43 graduated old- and circular-cut diamonds mounted in silver-topped gold sold for $95,250.
A platinum ring featuring a 31.22-carat oval-shaped Ceylon sapphire surrounded by brilliant-cut diamonds fetched $76,200. Additionally, a pair of Suzanne Belperron diamond earclips from 1945 in a trefoil design sold for $40,640.
A notable piece that exceeded its high estimate was a Jean Schlumberger tortoiseshell, coral, and diamond clip-brooch, circa 1956, previously owned by actress Lauren Bacall. The brooch sold for $21,590.
However, several expected high-value lots were either pulled or unsold. A 43.15-carat old European brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamond ring, estimated between $550,000 and $850,000, was withdrawn from the auction without explanation. Additionally, a 2.11-carat fancy intense green diamond, estimated at $115,000 to $170,000, failed to sell, as did an elaborate Oscar Heyman bib necklace set with 150 carats of variously cut yellow, brown, and orange-tinted diamonds, estimated between $100,000 and $150,000. Another lot, a platinum necklace featuring graduated cushion-shaped sapphires with brilliant-cut diamonds, also went unsold, with an estimate of $80,000 to $110,000.
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