In an unexpected yet fascinating collaboration, Bulgari, known for its Italian craftsmanship, has teamed up with MB&F, the Swiss leader in independent watchmaking, to create the new Serpenti. This marks their second joint effort, blending Bulgari’s rich heritage with MB&F’s futuristic technology.
The Serpenti collection, first introduced in the 1940s, draws inspiration from the serpent, symbolizing mystery and allure. Early designs featured coiled bracelets that hid their dials, a nod to Bulgari’s Italian roots. In the 1960s, the brand introduced the Tubogas technique, which created flexible twisted metal bands. In 2023, Bulgari celebrated the Serpenti’s 75th anniversary with the Serpenti Tubogas Infinity, showcasing a stunning gem-set design. Fast forward to January 2025, and Bulgari unveiled its latest versions: the Serpenti Tubogas and Seduttori models, now with mechanical movements integrated into their snake-like designs.
This evolution marks a shift in focus from aesthetics to engineering, with the watch’s movement now housed in the head of the snake. The bracelet designs feature scale-like patterns and come in various models, including double-twirl rose-gold versions and diamond-adorned luxury pieces.
Despite the Serpenti’s popularity, until now, there had been no models specifically designed for men. The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti changes this with a bold new design. This timepiece incorporates MB&F’s signature micro-engineering, visible through four sapphire windows on the rear crystal. The movement, reminiscent of a high-performance car engine, features a large 14mm balance wheel that oscillates slowly, emphasizing its mechanical complexity.
The design also features the artistic touch of Buonamassa Stigliani, whose flowing lines are evident in the watch’s case. With a size of 39mm x 53mm, it is larger than previous Serpenti models but is designed for comfort with articulated lugs that pivot, making it wearable with a fabric strap.
The time is displayed on domed aluminium discs through apertures on the front, with bright colors matching the bridgework visible through the back. The rear window, resembling a louvred V12 engine, is another nod to the racing car influence in the design. Max Busser and his team of watchmakers developed the manual-winding MB&F in-house movement, offering a 45-hour power reserve.
MB&F’s appeal lies in its unique blend of traditional craftsmanship and futuristic innovation. This is evident in the Serpenti’s design, where classic elements, like hand-bevelled movement bridges, are paired with cutting-edge technology. The watch’s design cleverly references both the serpent and the sleek lines of a racing car, blending two worlds seamlessly.
The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti will be available in three limited-edition models, each limited to 33 pieces. Buyers can choose from rose gold or titanium for the metal, ensuring a blend of luxury and precision engineering in every piece.
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