In an evolving economic landscape, many private enterprises in China are finding ways to innovate while preserving the nation’s rich cultural heritage. One such company is CHJ Jewelry, a leading jewelry brand based in Shantou City, Guangdong Province. The company is revitalizing ancient craft techniques to maintain its competitive edge and keep traditional Chinese artistry alive.
At the heart of CHJ Jewelry’s approach is filigree inlaying, one of China’s eight core traditional jewelry-making techniques. This intricate craft involves working with fine gold threads as thin as 0.2 millimeters, requiring 18 meticulous steps to complete.
“If you’re not careful, the thread will snap,” said Huang Ming, an artisan at the company’s filigree workshop.
With a history spanning nearly 3,000 years, mastering this art is no easy feat.
“It can take two to three months just to grasp the basics. To truly master the skill and produce high-quality pieces, artisans need three to five years of dedicated practice,” Huang explained.
However, the craft is at risk of disappearing as fewer young people take up the trade. Recognizing this challenge, CHJ Jewelry established a filigree inlaying studio to train new artisans.
“Our studio employs about 50 artisans, and around 60 percent of them are young people,” Huang noted.
The company has successfully integrated these ancient techniques into modern jewelry designs, attracting a new generation of consumers. To further protect this intangible heritage, CHJ Jewelry has also set up a jewelry museum, which is open to tourists free of charge. The museum showcases a stunning collection of filigree art, including what is considered the world’s largest filigree artwork.
“We spent three years creating this masterpiece. Throughout this period, 40 to 50 artisans worked tirelessly on the project,” said Cai Zhonghua, vice president of CHJ Jewelry.
The artwork required 350 kilograms of silver, four kilograms of gold, and over 30,000 gemstones to complete, according to Cai.
To bridge tradition with contemporary styles, the company has invited designers from around the world to contribute fresh ideas, including renowned Japanese designer Oki Sato.
The rise of “China-chic,” a cultural movement blending modern fashion with traditional Chinese design elements, has fueled a growing interest in culturally inspired jewelry. Last year, more than half of gold buyers on the e-commerce platform Tmall were young consumers.
“Young people are very receptive to China-chic, and we continuously innovate our products to reflect this trend. Private enterprises like ours are more flexible, energetic, and willing to take on challenges,” Cai said.
He expressed hope that CHJ Jewelry’s innovative products would help preserve China’s intangible heritage while continuing the craftsmanship spirit for future generations.
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