Amethyst, as the birthstone for February, has been regarded as a symbol of wisdom and spirituality since ancient Greece. In the field of antique jewelry, amethyst necklaces have become the focus of collectors’ pursuit due to their rich purple tone, mysterious historical background and exquisite craftsmanship. From the Victorian era in the 19th century to the Art Deco movement in the early 20th century, numerous jewelry brands and independent artisans created countless classic works with amethyst as the core. This article will focus on those antique jewelry brands renowned for making amethyst necklaces, analyzing their design styles and historical values.
The 19th century: The Golden Age of Amethyst
Garrard & Co.
As the official jeweler of the British royal family, Garrard has been providing jewelry services to European nobility since 1735. During the Victorian period (1837-1901), Garrard amethyst necklaces often employed silver setting or gold and silver layering techniques, complemented by rose-cut diamonds or pearls as embellishments. Amethyst is often cut into pillow or droplet shapes and set in intricate scroll-patterned metal frames, showcasing a romantic style.
Representative work: An amethyst necklace designed for Queen Alexandra in the 1860s, featuring a lace-like structure woven with silver amethyst and pearls, is now housed in the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) in London.
Castellani (Castellani)
The Italian brand Castellani family is renowned for its Archaeological Revival jewelry. Its amethyst necklaces from the 1860s to 1880s were inspired by Etruscan and ancient Greek gold craftsmanship. They use the Granulation technique to set amethyst in a gold base and pair it with garnet or lapis lazuli to create a strong color contrast.
Features: Necklaces are often presented in the form of short chains, and pendants are either relief amethyst or carvings with classical mythological themes.
Art Nouveau Movement (1890-1910) : Naturalism and Fantasy Aesthetics
Rene Lalique
Although Rene Lalique, a master of French glass art, was renowned for his glass works, there were also many masterpieces of amethyst in his early jewelry designs. He is skilled at combining amethyst with enamel painting and keratin materials to create natural themes such as butterflies, dragonflies and vines.
Representative work: The “Dragonfly Amethyst Necklace” from 1898, featuring amethyst as the body of a dragonfly and miniature pearls embellished on the enamel wings, exuding a surreal beauty. Such works, due to their scarcity in existence, are often sold for millions of dollars at auctions.
Georges Fouquet
As another master of the Art Nouveau movement, Fouquet’s amethyst necklaces are characterized by asymmetrical designs and mixed combinations of different materials. He often combines unpolished natural amethyst rough stones with ivory and chalcedony to imitate the organic form of plant vines.
Historical background: At the 1900 Paris World Expo, Fouquet’s amethyst necklace “Snake and Moonlight” caused a sensation. Its meandering snake-shaped chain symbolizes eternal vitality.
Edwardian Period to Art Deco (1901-1935) : The Collision of Refinement and Geometry
Cartier
The amethyst necklaces launched by Cartier during the Edwardian period (1901-1910) were renowned for their platinum inlays and Garland Style. Amethyst is often combined with diamonds and aquamarine to form gradient tones. For instance, the necklace custom-made for Queen Elizabeth of Belgium in 1910 features seven pear-shaped amethysts as the main stones, surrounded by densely set diamonds to create a Mosaic pattern.
Transformation during the Art Deco period: In the 1920s, Cartier began to adopt geometrically cut amethysts, paired with onyx or coral, creating a strong contrast of black, white and red. Representative works can be seen in the “Tutti Frutti” series.
Boucheron
Boucheron’s amethyst necklaces reached their peak during the Art Deco period. Their signature design features a double stone combination (such as amethyst + citrine) and a mechanical detachable structure. At the 1925 Paris International Fair for Decorative Arts, Boucheron’s “Starry River” necklace, featuring stepped cut amethyst to simulate the Milky Way, has a hidden hinge at the base that can be transformed into a bracelet.
Tiffany & Co.
The American brand Tiffany launched several amethyst necklaces in the early 20th century. The designer, Paulding Farnham, drew inspiration from Native American culture and adopted a combination of silver set amethyst and turquoise. These works have a rough style, in sharp contrast to the delicacy of Europe, and are now mostly collected in the Smithsonian Museum in the United States.
Niche Workshops and Independent Artisans
Russian Faberge
During the Russian Empire, the Faberge Workshop made amethyst necklaces for the Romanov family, mostly using Siberian amethyst and paired with enamel-painted gold chains. Its feature is that the pendant can be opened and contains miniature portraits or religious ICONS, reflecting the influence of Orthodox culture.
English Country Workshops
At the end of the 19th century, a group of anonymous artisans emerged in the British countryside, specializing in making “Mourning Jewelry” for the middle class. These amethyst necklaces have black jade or coal essence as the base, and the initials of the deceased are often engraved on the back. Amethyst symbolizes “eternal remembrance”.
Key Points for Identification and Collection
Brand logo:
Cartier: After 1904, the works were engraved with “Cartier” and serial numbers.
Lalique: Jewelry from the Art Nouveau period is usually unmarked and needs to be appraised through style and provenance.
Russian jewelry: The common gold labels are “56” or “88”, representing 14K or 18K gold.
Materials and craftsmanship:
During the Victorian era, silver inlays were often used, which were prone to oxidation and blackening.
During the Art Deco period, platinum and geometric cutting were preferred.
Natural amethyst often has color bands and inclusions, and the synthetic products are overly pure.
Market value
The starting price for necklaces of well-known brands (such as Cartier and Lalique) is approximately 50,000 to 200,000 US dollars.
Works from niche workshops cost approximately 10,000 to 50,000 US dollars.
Those with original boxes and historical documents will be charged a 30% to 50% premium.
Conclusion
From the luxury of Victoria to the rationality of Art Deco, antique amethyst necklaces are not only a combination of gemstones and metals, but also a microcosm of the aesthetics of The Times. When collecting this kind of jewelry, it is not only necessary to pay attention to the brand and craftsmanship, but also to understand the cultural narrative behind it – whether it is the royal authority, the worship of nature, or the innovative spirit of the mechanical age, all are eternally flowing in that deep purple.
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