In recent fashion landscapes, warrior references have surged through runways, epitomized by labels like Dior, Balenciaga, and Julien Dossena’s Rabanne, showcasing fierce femininity through medieval metal-plate necklines, chainmail gowns, and diamond-dusted tabards. This trend extends to the world of jewellery, where a fusion of strength and beauty is embodied in pieces that mirror gladiator resilience and Wonder Woman prowess.
Francesca Amfitheatrof, Louis Vuitton’s artistic director of jewellery, emphasizes the power of jewellery as a vessel for the spirit of a person. Her high-jewellery collections, influenced by Joan of Arc and medieval women who changed the world, feature breastplate-like necklaces that echo the protective qualities of an LV trunk. These designs, part of collections like Deep Time, blend copious stones for maximum impact without compromising ease of movement.
Beyoncé, in her recent tour, adorned custom Elsa Peretti Tiffany metal-mesh regalia, resonating with the ’70s feminist movement. Van Cleef’s long hammered gold cuffs and chainmail elements in Hermès and Pomellato pieces contribute to the pervasive warrior theme. Even Chanel’s Tweed high-jewellery collection is termed “softest armour,” emphasizing the confluence of strength and elegance.
According to fashion historian Dr Valerie Steele, this trend is not entirely unexpected. Historically and cross-culturally, the influence of armor in fashion has resurfaced, symbolizing both physical and psychological protection. The current surge in warrior-inspired jewellery reflects contemporary anxieties, political climates, and the rise of misogyny, prompting individuals to seek not only rational arguments but a means to assertively fight back.
Art jewellers like Cora Sheibani explore ancient metal-writing techniques, and fine jewellers craft gleaming sabres, daggers, and arrows as pendants, studs, or bracelet charms. Nigora Tokhtabayeva’s brand, Tabayer, offers a new universal symbol of protection through sculptural knots inspired by the reed bundle of Inanna, an ancient Mesopotamian “goddess of protection.”
This trend aligns with a new era of self-expression, where women assertively choose daring pieces, empowered by autonomy and financial freedom. Francesca Amfitheatrof sees this as a metaphor for women leading without aggression, akin to Joan of Arc, who led without using her sword, emphasizing the protective and guiding role of jewellery in this modern age of empowerment.
