The hallmark of Bulgari’s distinctive jewelry, the smooth and dome-shaped cabochon, has long been associated with the brand’s audacious approach to design. In the 1950s, as Bulgari forged its unique jewelry philosophy, the family boldly diverged from the prevailing ‘Paris-style’ fascination with faceted gemstones. Instead, they embraced the unconventional cabochon, a decision that not only concentrated the gem’s color saturation but also marked a revolutionary shift in jewelry design, defining Bulgari’s rebellious attitude.
Named after the old French word ‘caboche,’ meaning head, the cabochon was an ancient stone cut predating more advanced faceting techniques. Today, this round cut, devoid of facets, remains a Bulgari trademark, often featuring opulent, glossy color gemstones in generous proportions.
In a daring departure from tradition, Bulgari has harnessed the fluid lines of the cabochon to craft a line of gold rings and pendants—strikingly absent of gemstones. In its purest form, the malleable gold takes on a modern and minimalist aesthetic. The timeless charm of the cabochon finds a contemporary expression in these sculptural forms, available in rose or yellow gold. The visual allure continues with incisions under the dome, mirroring the flat base of the cabochon cut and its setting.
The creation of these starkly minimalist jewels demands absolute mastery of goldsmithing. Bulgari transforms the cabochon shape into a modern art form through the expertise of Italian artisans in its workshops. The seamless silhouettes, mirror polishing, and precise bevelling showcase the artisans’ understanding of gold’s limits, pushing them to new heights.
The initial offerings include a ring and a pendant. The ring gracefully encircles the finger with liquid ease, its shank tapering down for an ergonomic fit. The pendant showcases the double cabochon’s entire outline, resembling two gemstones back to back. Reflecting Bulgari Cabochon’s spirit of restrained elegance, the chain seamlessly integrates into the design.
Emblematic, timeless, and universally appealing in its simplicity, Bulgari Cabochon stands as an icon of the Roman jewelry house that fearlessly writes its own rules. This collection encapsulates Bulgari’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of design while honoring the timeless beauty of the cabochon.
