Ruth Aymer, the visionary behind Aymer Maria, has successfully married her childhood fascination with artful jewellery and her adult appreciation of architectural masterpieces. The result is a contemporary jewellery house that breathes life into historical references, infusing them with a modern spin. Aymer Maria draws inspiration from the built environment, turning the intricacies of architecture into unique pieces that transcend mere accessories.
Ruth Aymer’s journey from childhood admiration to the inception of Aymer Maria is a testament to the power of observation and the allure of design. Raised in London with Dominican and Sierra Leonean roots, Aymer recalls being captivated by her mother’s 1980s costume jewellery, particularly pieces by Yves Saint Laurent and Butler & Wilson. The visual impact of bold styles, big shoulder pads, and vibrant red lipstick left an indelible mark on her.
The pandemic-induced pause provided Aymer with the reflective space to transform her observations into a purpose. The inaugural Aymer Maria collection, ‘Pilastro,’ drew inspiration from Ancient Greece and Rome, as well as neoclassical architecture in London. Pieces like the ‘Cauliculi’ ring and ‘Acanthus’ ring reflect Aymer’s fascination with symmetry, leaf designs, and the regal aesthetic of ancient cultures.
The success of the ‘Pilastro’ collection, available at Liberty in London and online, marked the beginning of Aymer Maria’s journey. The brand attracted a diverse clientele, surprising even Aymer herself with its broad appeal, reaching older international women and contemporary artists like Alloysious Massaquoi from the band Young Fathers.
The latest venture, the ‘Malian’ collection, delves into the design mastery of the medieval Mali Empire, spanning modern-day Senegal, Niger, Nigeria, Burkina Faso, Ghana, and West Africa’s Bight of Benin. Aymer’s creations pay homage to structures like the Djenne Mosque and the Sankoré Madrasa, challenging the historical imbalance in celebrating architectural heritage.
Each piece in the ‘Malian’ collection, from statement cocktail rings to gold and diamond earrings, is a nod to African architecture. Ethically sourced Botswanamark diamonds and recycled 9ct yellow gold underscore Aymer Maria’s commitment to responsible sourcing.
Aymer acknowledges that she sees herself as a jewellery designer first, navigating imposter syndrome with a playful laugh. Despite the brand’s rapid ascent, she remains committed to thorough research and the distillation of her design philosophy. As Aymer Maria continues to evolve, one guiding principle remains constant: each piece serves as wearable art, sparking conversations and opening portals to discovery.
